Part 2: We're about to move in - What do we need to know about managing termites? (0.7 MB)
Part1: We're about to build - What do we need to know about dealing with termites?
A managed approach is best!
There are more than three hundred and fifty species of termites but only six cause economic damage to houses. All six attack houses from underground.
The emphasis of current building regulations is on managing termites through barrier systems and inspections rather than environmentally harmful methods of the past.
This section of the termite management site will help you make informed decisions about selecting an appropriate termite management system.
Who's at risk?
The risk of major damage is very low but all types of houses are at risk. A recent CSIRO study found that steel and masonry houses had virtually the same chance of attack as timber houses. Termites can also damage plasterboard, carpets, plastics, books, artwork, clothing and fitout timbers.
The potential risk of attack also varies according to the location of the house in Australia and site specific features of the local environment. These sites need special attention and it's best to consult with your designer, builder and pest manager.
What kind of termite management system do I need?
The key priority is to provide a system that addresses the whole of the house, not just the structural elements. This usually consists of a barrier system built into the construction that is designed to assist termite inspections once the house is occupied. Other features can also be added for high risk sites.
The Golden Rule: Design the house for easy inspection!
What most people don't know is that termite barriers don't actually stop termites getting into the house, they just stop hidden entry. The barriers are inspection systems rather than prevention systems. Regular inspections use the barriers to look for termite entry at pre-determined locations then termite activity can be controlled as required.
Common types of barriers that assist inspections
- Concrete slab (slab) - solid concrete unit constructed to prevent termite penetration.
- Crushed stone (stone) - layer of stone particles that are big enough to prevent the termites shifting them and small enough to prevent the termites penetrating the spaces between the particles.
- Sheet capping (cap) - sheet material (e.g. metal) used as an isolated or continuous subfloor barrier.
- Stainless steel mesh (mesh) - termite proof mesh used as an isolated or continuous barrier.
- Chemicals (chemical) - periodic application of chemicals around/under buildings to repel or kill termites.
Popular termite barrier types
1. Some Councils have special requirements about what types of barriers can be used.
2. Barrier types other than those shown here may also have been used.
3. Red shading in diagrams indicates termite barrier locations.

Inspection and maintenance responsibilities
Whatever you've decided to do in the way of termite barriers, its effectiveness is entirely dependent on regular inspections once you've moved in. No termite management system works properly without inspection. Australian Standard AS3660.2 indicates that inspections be conducted at intervals of not more than 12 months - more frequent inspections are strongly recommended.
Maintenance of barriers is also important and this means taking care not to undo the builder's good work. Problems tend to occur with landscaping works such as paving, mulch and garden beds next to the house. For instance the barriers can get damaged during the landscaping construction (especially chemical barriers). The finished paving, mulch and garden beds can often cover the barriers giving a hidden pathway for termite entry into the house. It is therefore best to plan landscaping work right at the start of construction, at the same time as selecting a barrier system.
Other maintenance issues are also important but perhaps best left until you're ready to move in. There's another information brochure for this called "We're moving in. What do we need to know about managing termites?" (See part 2, below)
Special consideration for high risk building sites
As mentioned, some building sites pose a greater natural risk of termite attack than others. Ways to identify high risk sites include:
- Large and established sources of termite food and nesting near the site (e.g. established bushland) increases the likelihood of termites.
- Permanently damp ground increases the ability of termites to attack, i.e. they can more readily build mud tunnels from the ground into the house.
- The further north in Australia, the greater the prevalence of termites.
- When building right up to the boundary, inspections may not be possible from the neighbouring property, thus increasing the risk of hidden attack.
- When adding house extensions, problems such as lack of barrier continuity, reduced subfloor ventilation and restricted subfloor access may increase the risk of attack.
If you find yourself saying yes to any of these issues, then it's best to plan deal with them before building. Consult your builder, designer and pest manager because you may need to do more than the minimum requirements.
Tips for high risk sites
- Consider open or at least well ventilated subfloor areas

- Ensure good inspection access and crawl space under the house
- Provide good surface drainage to keep the subfloor area dry
- Use treated timber framing to minimise the materials at risk
- Isolate structures such as decks and balconies from the main structure, i.e. if the barrier systems can't be integrated smoothly with the main building
- Inspect for termites at less than the maximum 12 monthly intervals
- Get termite protection insurance - this typically includes scheduled inspections, monitoring and financial cover against damage
- Get detailed advice from a pest manager. Find them in the yellow pages but before choosing, ask if they have professional indemnity insurance for timber pest inspection and treatment. Ask how many years the inspector coming to the house has been undertaking timber pest inspections (as he or she - rather than the boss or supervisor - is the person doing the inspection). It takes a minimum of 2 years training to start to understand termite behaviour.
In general, make sure the termite management system fits the house style... one type does not suit all!!
Remember... before you build, design to make it easy to inspect for termites.
Termite barriers are of little value without regular inspection and maintenance.
Your house is your responsibility. It's a waste of time and money trying to prove the termites in your house came from a tree in the next yard or from a power pole out the front and then expecting some one else to pay.
Part 2: We're about to move in - What do we need to know about managing termites?
Inspect... inspect... inspect!
Termites tend to attack houses from underground and there is no practical system that can guarantee 100% to stop them getting in. What many people don't understand is that termite barriers built into houses don't actually stop termites getting in. The barriers are designed to prevent undetectable termite entry but not detectable termite entry. They do however make any entry easier to see. Regular inspections use the barriers to look for termite entry at pre-determined locations. If an entry point is found, the termites can be treated.
Regular inspections are important because avoiding them can be very expensive. For instance, household insurance doesn't normally cover termite damage. Building insurance and warranties can also be invalidated. This means you pay to repair the damage.
Who's at risk?
Nearly all houses in Australia are at risk of termite attack, not just timber framed houses. A CSIRO study found that steel framed and masonry houses have virtually the same risk of attack. Termites can also damage plasterboard, carpets, plastics, books, artwork, clothing & fitout timbers.
Common types of barriers that assist inspections
- Concrete slab (slab) - solid concrete unit constructed to prevent termite penetration.
- Crushed stone (stone) - layer of stone particles too hard and heavy for termites to penetrate that are big enough to prevent the termites shifting them and small enough to prevent the termites penetrating the spaces between the particles.
- Sheet capping (cap) - sheet material (e.g. metal) used as an isolated or continuous subfloor barrier.
- Stainless steel mesh (mesh) - termite proof mesh used as an isolated or continuous barrier.
- Chemicals (chemical) - periodic application of chemicals around/under buildings to repel or kill termites.
What type of barrier system does your house have?
You can check the type of barrier used in your house by referring to the "Notice of Treatment". It is commonly fixed in the electrical meter box or near the subfloor access door.
Popular termite barrier types
1. Some Councils have special requirements about what types of barriers can be used.
2. Barrier types other than those shown here may also have been used.
3. Red shading in diagrams indicates termite barrier locations.

About inspections
How often should I get inspections done?
The "Notice of Treatment" provides site specific guidance on this issue. At a general level, Australian standard AS3660.2 recommends a maximum of 12 monthly intervals. More frequent inspections are recommended for high risk locations.
What are high risk locations?
That depends on where the house is in Australia, how close the house is to food and nesting sources, how well the house can be isolated from adjacent buildings, and if the barrier has been disturbed by recent earth works or landscaping. It is best to ask a
pest manager for detailed advice. Find them in the yellow pages.
How do I choose a Pest Manager?
Each state and territory has different levels of competency required to obtain a pest management license, so you need to ask some extra questions. Ask if they have professional indemnity insurance for timber pest inspections and treatment. Ask how many years the inspector coming to your house has been undertaking timber pest inspections (as he or she's the person doing the inspection not his/her boss or supervisor). It takes a minimum of 2 years training to begin to understand termite behaviour.
About maintenance of barriers
I want to do some exterior paving and make some garden beds, does that pose a problem?
Don't let paving, mulch or garden bed heights cover barriers, weep holes or inspection zones such as slab edges. Seek additional advice for paving in the Northern Territory and Queensland as paving is required to protect chemical soil treatments but must be positioned correctly.
I have a chemical soil barrier, when does it have to be re-applied?
Chemical barriers don't last the life of the building. Best to refer to the "Notice of Treatment" usually fixed at the entrance to the subfloor or the electrical meter box for details. Call a pest manager for re-treatment as required but remember inspections are still required at 12 monthly intervals (maximum) irrespective of re-application periods.
What type of timber can I use for landscaping?
Use only treated timber or naturally termite resistant timber. Other timbers only encourage termite attack. Your timber supplier can help, or refer to www.timber.org.au for details on appropriate timbers.
What do I need to look out for when adding a deck or balcony to the house?
Ensure the structure is either isolated from the main house or has a barrier system that integrates with the existing house barrier. Ensure that stairs, posts, landings and porches can be inspected for termites.
Will storing things under the house cause a problem?
Don't store termite food such as firewood, newspaper, timber or cardboard. Don't let any stored items create hidden pathways to the structure above or the interior of the house. Don't let stored items block termite inspection access or subfloor ventilation.
Does rendering or painting the exposed edge of my concrete slab pose a problem?
These treatments potentially allow hidden termite entry behind the paint film or render. It's best to avoid these practices if at all possible.
Where can I get more advanced guidance on barrier maintenance?
Get advice from your pest manager during the next inspection. Find them in the yellow pages.
Extra precautions you can take
- Request that your neighbour assesses suspicious trees on adjoining properties for termite nests, then control any activity

- Obtain termite protection insurance which typically involves regular inspections, monitoring and treatment as part of the insurance package
- Install baited monitoring stations around the building to help detect termite activity in the area, but remember they are monitoring stations not barriers.
Remember: termite barriers are of little value without regular inspection and maintenance.
Your house is your responsibility. It's a waste of time and money trying to prove the termites in your house came from a tree in the next yard or from a power pole out the front and then expecting some one else to pay.
The information and advice provided on this website is intended as a guide only. As successful design and construction depends upon numerous factors outside the scope of this publication, the Timber Development Association accepts no responsibility for specifications in, nor work done or omitted to be done in reliance on this publication. Whilst all care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained on this website, the Timber Development Association disclaims, to the
full extent permitted by law, all and any liability for any damage or loss, whether direct, indirect, special or consequential, arising directly or indirectly out of use of or reliance on this guide, whether as a result of negligence of the Timber Development Association or otherwise.